The Paris Wife

This week our Eating Between the Leaves Book Club met to discuss the first of our Paris inspired novels, The Paris Wife by Paula Mclain. Using published letters and research, the author tells the story of Ernest Hemingway's first marriage from that of his wife, Hadley. Through Hadley's eyes, we visit Paris of the early twenties and meet fascinating characters such as Scott and Zelda Fitzgeralds, Gertrude Stein and Ezra Pound. Was their's a story of love or betrayal, or both? Was Hadley a victim or was her relationship with Hemingway her salvation? Our roomful of primarily women had some fun debating the true meaning behind Hemingway's claim, 'I wish I had died before I had loved anyone but her', along with how they might handle the rogue as their husband. As talk drifted from life in Paris and lamenting the lost art of letter writing, to running with the bulls, Barbara-jo shared with us a charming poem she penned about a special bull she left behind in Paris.

For dinner this evening, Chef Glenys Morgan took inspiration from another (more successful in marriage) Paris Wife, Julia Child and cooked up some delicious French classics from her seminal book, The French Chef Cookbook. We kicked of the evening in fine Hemingway form with martinis to toast Paula's achievement, perfectly accompanied by a Tartine of Duck Rillette and Salmon Souffle. Glenys worked her magic on Boeuf Bourguignon paired with a Salade de Saison. Poached Pears and Chocolate Sable added the finishing touch to a perfectly Paris inspired meal.

For those wanting to delve even further into Hemingway's life, we recommend the Hemingway project which also has an insightful article with author Paula McLain.

An Affair to Remember...

Mes Amis

I have many memories, thankfully. Dates travel through the year and arrive at their destination, and if you happen to be around me at the moment you might just hear me say, “it was on this day, when I was eight, that I was hit by a car”. Or, “it was on this date, my grandfather would have been 126”, and so on. But it was on June 17th, 2010 - cinq a sept - that I launched 'my little one' and though it was only a few days ago, the memory is hazy at best. For me, the affair was magical, surreal and over-whelming. So many of you were there to support me, thank you, from the tip of my Parisienne pink toes - complete with tour Eiffel - to the top of my tête rouge(ish).

As luck would have it, Carol was walking along the seawall one day and discovered DINETTE, our amazing Django Quartet. I am looking for an excuse to have another fête so I can have them near me again soon. Lawren, Mark and Glenys organized the food (recipes from the book), while Brad, head barman at UVA, came to muddle the Pink Drink (recipe in the book) and Barb took care of the gold at the till.

Of course Bernie Lyon was there, grinning from ear to ear. My eyes well up with joy and gratitude when I leaf through the pages of COOKING for ME and SOMETIMES YOU. Thank you Bernie, your illustrations captured my mood beautifully. Ruth Wilson, with her leg in cast, was there too. Ruth was my editor/proofer. Ruth proofed Tin Fish Gourmet back in 1998 so this was our second liason. The memory of her professionalism stuck with me and I was delighted she was available for this project. As well as bringing Dinette into our lives, Carol helped me manage the project, and of course, there were moments of distress. Merci Carol, your aid was magnifique. (Oh yes, thanks for serving the pink drink)

The books showed up the day before the fête…sigh. The fête was grand and I won’t forget it.

I hope those of you who have purchased COOKING for ME and SOMETIMES YOU - are enjoying my ‘little one’. It is a very private book and it was cathartic for me to write the words. And, if you haven't yet purchased the book, I HOPE you do!

Barbara-jo McIntosh

June, 2010

More photos of the evening's festivities may be found here.

Postcards from Paris

27, Fevrier, 2009

My last night in Paris and my mood gratefully, has changed from being sad and teary at leaving this paradise I have cocooned in, to happy. I meet 2 friends for a cocktail and decide to arrive early to observe the room, the clientele and the service, on my own - once you enter into lively conversation, it is easy to neglect the nuance. There are 2 levels to this jewel box, about 12 seats on each level. The second level has a bookshelf, well stocked with interesting books. The walls are wood paneled and well taken care of. The bar has 7 stools. There is one bartender, 2 servers, and they are elegant. The presented menu is unique and states clearly that it is for sale, for 5 euro, I order a French 75, it costs 28 euro. Before my drink is muddled, I receive a glass of cucumber water, a bowl of roasted almonds, a bowl of olives and a bowl of chips. A cloth cocktail napkin is presented when the French 75 is served, ahh, this cocktail is perfect. I am happy to observe, a man on his own, two men and one woman together, 2 tables of 2 women each, a couple at the bar and another couple celebrating something special as she receives a very large box containing a very large purse from miu miu as a gift. They kiss, and I smile. My friends arrive but we can share less than an hour together as we must separate to experience other Parisian activities. Can you guess where I have been enjoying this special moment? The first person that does, will receive two tickets to the event at the shop on Monday, March 2nd.
bjx


28, Fevrier, 2009

I have left Paris. I am gliding through the skies to Toronto where I will meet with good friends who hopefully, will not have to observe too many tears. What a month, what a life.
Thank you, for sharing my experiences.
bjx

Postcards from Paris

26, Fevrier, 2009

I sleep late today. I ate fish at le Dome last night, monkfish (lotte) avec truffles, turbot avec epinards et hollandaise, vouvray - fini. Funny, there is so many places to dine, and I am back to le Dome for the second time this trip - it makes me happy. I tour about my neighbourhood in the (late) morning, cafe at my local, wee bit of shopping, back to the flat for dejeuner. Then, I meet a Canadian friend who is the Paris correspondent for Art Review. He brings along an artist friend and we tour galleries in the 3rd. After our exploring, we go back to his flat to dine with his family. As my time here is drawing to a close, I have cleaned out my fridge to contribute to dinner - salmon fume, cheese, rice, wine and a few other items. We start with sardines, pickles, olives, then he makes blinis for the salmon fume, mushroom soup, squid ink risotto, fromage and poire for dessert. The children devour my leftover macaron from La Duree and perform all sorts of aerobic acts, art projects, recite poetry - their home is busy, loving and the perfect place to be spending my 2nd to last day in Paris.
bjx

Postcards from Paris

25, Fevrier, 2009

Tuesday, I managed to stay close to the flat, working.... but, I did manage to make my way to Rue Cler to re-visit Davilo, an Italian shop. In this small shop, I am at peace; the display of charcuterie, smoked salmon, salmon roe, prepared salads, pastas, oils, wine, pastries and cheese causes me to wimper with joy. The devil within tempts your wallet to open wide, but I am content (today) with salmon fume and lapin and pistachio terrine. In another shop I buy a quail, and in yet another shop, I buy some cauliflower. Home to the flat, where dinner is set in motion. I begin with a glass of Pouilly-Fume and the Rabbit Terrine, then a roasted Quail with Cauliflower Gratin. In many ways, this was my favourite meal in Paris.
Today, the sun was glorious and I took a few hours to walk along the Seine. Dinner plans are still in the making.
bjx

Postcards from Paris

24, Fevrier, 2009

I do love jazz, and Paris is happy to please. I went to a club on Sunday night called Caveau de la Huchette. The history of the room goes back to 1550 and was the particular meeting place for the principal figures of the French Revolution; Danton, Marat, Robespierre etc. You can feel the history seeping through the stones and as wonderful as I felt in the room, listening to the Clarinette Connection, my imagination ran wild with thoughts of what exactly went on in these rooms so long ago. But since 1946, this historic landmark has been a jazz club and hopefully, that is what it will stay.
Monday, I spent dedicated to my work, until the late afternoon when I went for a demonstration (in French) of a machine that takes pictures of things. Does this sound like the sort of thing a Luddite would do in Paris? I then met 2 cookbook authors for dinner at a delightful bistro, Dominique Bouchet. Champagne Rose, Cauliflower Soup with Truffles, Ravioles de legumes, Macaronis de homard sur puree de champignons, Galette de pieds de cochon, Souffle chaud au Grand Marnier. Chardonnay from Beaune, Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois, Medoc, 2002.
Now, its time to hit the streets.
bjx

Postcards from Paris

"ce weekend a Paris" has been enriched with friends, food and wine.

Saturday morning took me to the east of Paris, adjacent to the Vincennes, which is what the Bois de Boulogne is to the west of Paris. I travelled here to lunch with new friends who were introduced to me by a very good friend in Vancouver. Their home is in the village of Nogent sur Marne, and the street they live on is basically across the street from the city of Paris. I brought a friend with me who happened to be spending a few days in Paris. We were five, all lovers of food and wine. Our afternoon began with a glass of bubble and nibbles of saucisson sec, peanuts, root vegetable chips. Dejeuner began with a salad of lettuce, a mild goat cheese - warm - on a slice of apple, the wine was Chateau Bel-Air, Lalande de Pomerol 2001. Second course was Sauteed Prawns with basmati rice, cold tomato and cucumber, the wine was Chateau Branaire, St. Julien - Medoc 1975. ( can you believe my good fortune?) We finished the wine with the cheese course, then in a very merry mood, began our dessert course which was the most delicious chocolate gateau with a choice of two glace from Berthillon - rum and raisin or chocolate, of course we all took both. The most beautiful tasting calvados hors d'age was presented, which I declined for myself but managed to sneak a few sips from my friends glass when he was otherwise engaged in conversation. We departed around 4:30, the taxi ride back to Ile de la Cite was sleepy, followed by a delicious nap, a frisee salad with smoked salmon, and sweet dreams.
Sunday morning, I was gently brought into the day as the bells of Notre Dame sang their song of joy. I walked to the Sunday Market on Rue du Monge, which took about 25 minutes, purchased more food, took it back to the flat then met a friend at the Ritz for Sunday Brunch. The brunch is set up in a beautiful room which is otherwise used for private functions. There are many tables of food, one for viennoiserie, another for fish, another for sushi, another for salads, another for middle eastern food, a hot station where they make any egg dish you desire a la minute. The hot offerings included Duck stuffed with fois gras and Sea bass in Brioche with a sauce of crayfish. Then there was the patisserie. sigh. We drank a bottle of Veuve Cliquot, 2002.
The afternoon continued with a walk to Laduree where we purchased macaron (not sure when I will be able to actually eat them) a tour of this neighbourhood before returning to the flat for a nap.
The evening ahead I promise to be disciplined with my work, but hope to take in some jazz at a local club recommend by our server at brunch, before retiring for the night. ONLY 6 SLEEPS LEFT.
bjx

Postcards from Paris

20, Fevrier, 2009

Well now, a special day indeed. I made my way to the Ritz Hotel and presented myself to the Director of the Ecole Ritz Escoffier, Dominique Potier. We took lunch with a mutual friend outside of the hotel, but the real treat of the day was going back to the hotel for a tour of the kitchens and cooking school. Did you know the kitchens of the Ritz were the inspiration for the kitchen in the film Ratatouille? We had cafe and miniature eclairs in the Bar Vendome (The Hemingway Bar does not open until 6:30 pm which is a must on my list before I return home). The Ritz is a very elegant experience. Then off to explore some more food shops, purchase more food and wine then back to the flat to cook dinner with a friend who cooks much better than me, so I trust the evening will result in a few recipes for the book.
bjx

Postcards from Paris

19, Fevrier, 2009

Today I - well we actually- play tourists. Tour Eiffel. The sky is brilliant and the queue is manageable, and only in my dreams could I have imagined the view I experienced from this historic structure. My tour guide slowly walks us around the 2nd landing while describing every notable landmark. ( I can only hope the pictures are as grand as my memory will be) We leave the tower and walk a short distance to Rue Cler, an amazing market street where we purchase ingredients to cook our dinner. I cannot begin to list the items we came away with, but I envision a full and long evening of eating very well, with a wee bit of wine. But what I can tell you is that when we returned to the flat, our afternoon tea consisted of: Mortadella, Andouille de Guemmene, et Pate de tete, the wine was a South African Sauvignon Blanc - a wonderful wine cost: 10 Euros from Nicolas....
Have I told you I loved Paris?
bjx

Postcards from Paris

17, Fevrier, 2009

I have been in Paris for 2 weeks now, and finally made my way to Librairie Gourmande today. It is a very nice cookbook shop, some wonderful old books (en francais) and a few new publications in English. I did not purchase today, but have made a list for the next visit. This shop is on 2 floors, a woman sits at a desk on the first floor, and another woman sits at a desk on the second floor. It is quiet, no music and no Master Holmes about to offer you a cup of tea or comical observations. Do I sound a bit homesick?
Monday was a day of cooking, writing and ending the day at a literary cafe (les editeurs in the 6th) with friends for a bottle of wine. And Sunday, new friends took me to the country to scour flea markets. That was good fun and included lunch from a catering truck which was a delicious sandwich of merguez sausage with dijon mustard on baguette.
bjx

Postcards from Paris

14, Fevrier, 2009

I cannot pretend to be enthusiastic about spending Saint Valentines Day, the sacred day of love, alone in Paris.  But, I am content in the knowledge that I have many people in my life who do love me, and maybe even one or two who could be happy spending this day avec moi.  That being said, the day has been lovely for me myself and I.  The weather is glorious.  I start my walk away from the 4th, head up the Seine to the 7th with a stop at Cafe Beaux Arts for a cafe creme.  Walking in Paris is best taken at a leisurely pace, as each shop window draws you into their world, delighting your senses with its paintings, books, haute couture or antiquities. I stroll down Rue du Bac, there is a little shop I remember from a previous trip where I find a few gifts for loved ones at home, then I stop at Cafe Varenne for cafe longe.  A few more purchases - I am crazy about silly stockings - before stepping into one of the temples of gastronomie for dejeuner; Gaya par Pierre Gagnaire.  The room is small and casual, the staff are caring and suitably attentive to a woman dining on her own.   I propose a glass of champagne rose, the perfect enhancement for a happy mood.  I order from the Maree Modeste portion of the menu; Darn de lieu jaune pochee au beurre, puree de cresson; croquettes de potimarron. For dessert; Crumble de pommes clocharde; creme glacee caramel et sirop cidre.    The walk back to the flat is even happier and I stop to browse in a shop of beautiful clothes, ponder wistfully over a pair of jeans for 337 euros, knock my brain back into place and sally forth to Shakespeare and Co. where I purchase a copy of love poems and letters by Robert and Elizabeth Barrett Browning.

I envision a gentle evening of reading, cooking, eating and sweet dreams. Love is beautiful.
bjx 

Postcards from Paris

11, Fevrier, 2009

I have been in Paris for one week, the past days have felt like a dream, but now, I truly believe I am here.  I walked to Dehillerin today. This shop was established in 1820 and I am sure it looks the same today as it did then. I purchased an asparagus server, a tart server and an olive scoop. For days, I have listened to the bells of Notre Dame chiming, I stare at the roof and steeple, but have not allowed myself to get too close. In the sunlight today, the church was bathing in its glory, so I just couldn't resist actually touching the walls. Maybe tomorrow, I will go inside.   I did make the five minute walk from my flat into another magical landmark - Shakespeare and Co. And can you imagine, I bought a previously enjoyed out of print cookbook from Scotland. I discovered a new shopping street today, filled my bag with good food and am now about to prepare dinner (my own concoction) for a friend.

bjx

Postcards from Paris

9, Fevrier, 2009

I made my way to the Arc de Triomphe this morning to meet a friend for petit-dejeuner, then proceeded to marche back to my flat. This took about 2 hours, breaking my journey for a stroll through the Hotel Crillion and a cafe longue. Aujourd'hui, il pleut beaucoup et tres gris - tres February, mais, still beautiful. I was ready for a good lunch when I returned and there was some lovely provisions in the refrigerator from my shopping on Saturday at la grande epicerie. I enjoyed a composed plate of baby rocket, avocado, ham, tongue with pistachios, cherry tomatoes, fromage and frozen grapes. Dinner this evening consisted of rabbit sausages, braised with fennel, garlic, white wine and cherry tomatoes. Now, it is 9:00 pm and I am meeting a friend for a glass of wine, because that's just what you do in Paris, go out late on a rainy Monday night.
bjx

Postcards from Paris

7, Fevrier, 2009

Saturday in Paris, with a Parisian. The day started with cafe et pain and the french lesson. A walk in the SNOW, the metro to a wonderful restaurant - le clos des gourmets -where we dined on Scrambled Eggs with Truffles, Salade avec Celery chips and beet puree, steak tartare with celeriac remoulade, roasted calamari with polenta, roast chicken and patates, fromage and Paris Brest, a bottle of wine, cafe. I have dined at this restaurant before and it was as delicous the second time as the first, probably better today as sharing the experience and the food was terribly pleasant. Then off to the cinema to see a movie I had no time to see in Vancouver. Slum Dog Millionaire. Loved it. Then off to la grande epicerie, the most marvelous food emporium I have visited.
sigh. This is a good sigh.
bjx

Postcards from Paris

6, fevrier, 2009

A glorious sunny day. Took lunch with two men (Canadians living in Paris) at a Tabac/bistro -Saint Amour.
The chef does everything from cooking, serving, dishes and selling the cigarettes. Food was good, wine was good, Paris is good.

bjx

Postcards from Paris

5, Fevrier, 2009

As I write, the bells of Notre Dame are tolling. The steeple is in view from my desk. Aujourd'hui, je marche a very long way to a market I remember visiting on my last trip to Paris. I was particularly enchante avec a vendor who sold special combinations of sea salts. Today, I made her tres happy as I stocked my pantry avec salts, pepper, mustards, mayonnaise, honey, oil, nutmeg and a tomato confit which madame promised will delight my palate. When I arrived home to my wee flat, I cooked a delicious dejeuner, for myself.

bjx

Postcards from Paris

3, Fevrier, 2009

I entered the city by train.

I left Vancouver hungry for Paris, I arrive ravenous.

The combination of a brilliant sky and chilly air create an intense desire to consume and nourish all my heart and soul can hold.

Wish me luck.

bjx